Friday, April 6, 2018

Draped Dolman! [NPA2018]


I have made draped necklines. I have made dolman sleeves. I wanted BOTH in one top. So I made this:



The above pictures are not hemmed, yet.

Here's how it was made...

like normal, place the BACK pattern piece places on fold. (check out my Draped Neckline tutorial here)



Cut a curve for the dolman armpit and used my straight edge ruler for the sleeves


 For the top, I measured my 13" to fold over for the drape:
 see, the 13" folded over......

 then I fold the fabric in half lengthwise:


  And cut my spliced front bodice to form drapes (check out here for more details on making draped necklines)

adding sleeves in a similar method as the back:


this is the front with the folded-over drape Unfolded. I cut the sides to line up with the shoulder deam area:



 see how when re-folded the drape fold over lines up with the arms: this is so the fold over doesn't bulk up the sleeves.

next, I measure the BACK neck opening.

 and cut a 2" strip that is 85% of the neck. (my neck measured 10", so I cut a 8.5" strip)


and here is the front and back lined up- see the extra folds? it will look bunched up.

 I pin the neckband, matching edges and center. You will have ti stretch the band slightly as you sew.


Finished: it looks pulled a bit, but will be good when all sewn together:


and just to show you the odd shape piece you will have. Here is the front with the drape section unfolded:


I matched the back neckband with the drape. the fold over part 

here is the back neck pinned on both sides.  I then sewen the upper arm seam.

I used the stretch stich on my regular machine, I didn't want the cut edge the serger makes.


here it is. right sides together (inside out). top seam stitched and drape folded over and pinned in place: 


see how I put the lower edge of the fold-over along the underarm seam? that will keep the drape in place. 


STIRCH the top shoulder seam part to the already sewn shoulder seam- to hold it in place. I used a 3.5" stitch length.



then sew the underarm-side seam- catching the fold-over drape in the armpit area.


my arm lengths were off. no big deal- just trim them to the same length if you forget to measure your pieces before you cut them out:


this is wha I wore all day. in the warehouse where I work. I realized my drape was a bit deep. So I will add a lace insert....



OOPS!!
While trimming some strings and getting ready to hem my sleeves..... I snipped the arm fabric!!!! AGGGHHH!!!!



I cut off both arms at the length of my OOPS and added a flounce. I think I fixed it. and I found a lacy tube top bra thing to wear under the drape.














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